2.1　Fashion Design　服装设计

The fashion design is a particular or individual interpretation treatment of a style. A style may be expressed in a great many designs, all different, yet all related because they are in the same style.19“Fashion Sense”consists of the ability to tell which clothing and accessories look good and which don’t.Since the entire notion of fashion depends on subjectivity, the fashion designers create their collections by combining their own images with fashion trends.The fashion illustration or design sketch shows the effect of wearing（Figure 2-1）.

2.1.1　Fashion lllustration　时装草图

Fashion sketches express the designer's concept and support the creation and marketing of the collection. Sometimes having a sketch will help you get your de-sign ideas across and nailed down before you start any part of the sewing production process.

（1）Women's Blouse：It is a soft and loose garment for the upper body, which is worn by women together with skirts or slacks.20In today’s fashion, such as the neckline and the collar, length, cut, details and decoration, together with the material produce a particular style.It is typically gathered at the waist or hips so that it hangs loosely over the wearer’s body（Figure 2-2）.

（2）Sweat Shirt：It may be pullover or coat style of cotton-terry cloth, fleece-lined cotton knit or a smooth cotton interlock. It can vary with solid colors, plaids, strips or checks.

（3）Uniform：This style of shirt is designed to compliment of the uniform sta-tus, or if the shirt is to be worn without a jacket then attention must be given to the practical aspects of the wearer's occupation.21Such as police, emergency services, security guards, etc.And some other officials, workplaces and schools also wear uni-forms in their duties.

（4）Work Clothing：The shirt is designed with the first consideration given to the kind of work of the wearer, especially some works that involve manual labour. The work clothing provide durability and safety, the fashion and style is a secondary priority, but must not be neglected（Figure 2-3）.

（5）Optional Pockets：Pockets are both functional and decorative, and come in a variety of styles, there are three general manufacturing principles, patch pocket, set-in pocket and seam pocket.22And the patch is an extra shell fabric piece lay on top of the garment directly.Patch pockets adorn men’s, women’s, and children gar-ment.The fabric piece is stitched on three sides, with top open.They can be square, rectangular, pointed, curved, or other special shapes, and may be decorated with topstitching, lace or braid trims.Fashion designers often create variations on patch pockets, using such elements as decorative stitching, zippers, draping, welts, but-ton-down closures, and flaps, etc23（Figure 2-4）.

（6）A-Line：In 1955，Christian Dior produced a line, which ran from fairly narrow shoulder and bust to a wide hemline at low calf length, giving the impression of the shape of a capital letter“A”. The cross line of the“A”usually came at or be-low the knee, such as flounce of pleats24（Figure 2-5）.

（7）Princess Line：A princess line or princess dress describes a woman's fitted dress or other garment cut in long panels without any seams at the waistline.

（8）Halter Neckline：A neckline with a strap or built up bodice in front, con-tinuing round to the back of the body. It is sleeveless, maybe just single strap around neck or over shoulder.

（9）Breeches：Short trousers used for riding. It is normally closed and fastened about the leg, along its open seams at varied lengths, and to the knee, by either but-tons or by a draw-string, or by one or more straps and buckle or brooches.

2.1.2　Production Sketch　生产图

Production sketch is named as workroom sketch, and it is a clear accurately drawn sketch of a garment that shows the important cutting details such as pockets, darts, seams, top-stitching, proportions, as well as other special design details.

（1）Jacket：It is a basic item of outerwear, and it is a mid-stomach-length garment for the upper body. Sometimes, it refers particularly to the tailored types in men's clothing, e.g.men's tailored jacket.In a broad sense it includes the denim or jumper as well, and is worn by men, women and children（Figure 2-6）.

（2）Skirt：The skirt is clothing worn from the waist down and which is the basic element of women's clothing matching jacket with a skirt makes a suit, or cos-tume, such as women's tailored suit with skirt25（Figure 2-7）.Many styles of skirts are subject to changes in fashion, such as jeans skirt.Individual styles are distin-guished by length, width, silhouette, cut and details, etc.

（3）Jeans：The term jeans are used to describe the very close fitting trousers, e. g.five-pockets jeans.The most famous jeans being known as Levi's are made by the large trousers makers in the world.26The first jeans were made in 1850 by Levi Straus for gold prospectors in USA.Now, Jeans have now become a fashionable gar-ment for both men and women as leisure and casual wear, and they come in various fits, including skinny, tapered, slim, straight, boot cut, narrow bottom, bell bottom, low waist and flare, etc（Figure 2-8）.

（4）Sport Wear：A style should be made of the tops&bottoms for different sports. It will be found that practical consideration about colors and designs of fabric also play a large part in the designing of sports shirts（Figure 2-9）.

（5）Mandarin Dress：It is a Chinese Mandarin Dress, named as Qipao Dress, with a narrow upstanding collar meeting at the front of the neck27.The original Qi-pao was wide and loose, and it covered most of the woman’s body, revealing only the head, hands, and the tips of the toes.With time though, the Qipao were tailored to become more form fitting and revealing（Figure 2-10）.

（6）Undergarment：It is an item of clothing worn beneath outer clothes, usually in direct contact with the skin, to shape the body. Undergarment is known by a num-ber of terms, such as Unders, Underwear, Underclothes and Underclothing, etc.Wom-en's undergarments collectively are called lingerie too.If made of suitable material or textile, some undergarments can serve as nightwear or swimsuits（Figure 2-11）.

Words and Expressions

fashion sense['fæʃən sens]时尚感觉

notion['nəuʃən]观念，意见，概念

illustrate['iləstreit]图示，图解

aspect['æspekt]局面；容貌

jacket['dʒækit]夹克

occupation[ɔkju'peiʃən]职业

fashion trend['fæʃən trend]流行趋势

fashion sketch['fæʃən sketʃ]时装画

design sketch[di'zain sketʃ]设计图，效果图

work clothing[wə：k'kləuðiŋ]工作服

consideration[kənsidə'reiʃən]考虑要点

neglected[ni'glektit]忽略的

business shirt['biznis ʃə：t]职业衬衫

casual shirt['kæʒjuəl ʃə：t]便装衬衫

trousers['traωzəz]西裤

smart appearance[sma：t ə'piərəns]潇洒的外貌

collar['kɔlə]领子

sleeve[sli：v]袖子

pocket['pɔkit]口袋

style[stail]款式

town-wear['taωn-weə（r）]上街装，外出服

dinner jacket['dinə'dʒækit]晚礼服

tuxedo[tʌk'si：dəu]男士无尾晚礼服，塔士多

front opening[frʌnt'əupəniŋ]前片开襟

bottom['bɔtəm]下摆

braid[breid]辫子，穗带，发辫

tail-coat[teil-kəut]燕尾服

eyelet holes['ailit həulz]孔眼

lacing['leisiŋ]花边

waist[weist]腰围，腰

braces[breisiz]吊带，背带

button-holes['bʌtn həulz]纽扣孔（广东话：纽门）

side straps[said stræp]侧吊带*

elastic[i'læstik]松紧带

zipper fastener['zipə'fa：snə]拉链系结物

formal shirt['fɔ：məl ʃə：t]礼服衬衫

tab[tæb]襻带

metal slide['metl slaid]金属滑片

side seam[said si：m]侧缝

pleating[pli：tiŋ]褶裥（广东话：活褶）

frilling['friliŋ]皱边*

hips[hips]臀围（广东话：坐围）

fly front[flai frʌnt]暗门襟

double cuff['dʌbl'kʌf]双层袖克夫

cash pocket[kæʃ'pɔkit]口袋，表袋

waistband['weistbænd]腰头

sweat shirt[swet ʃə：t]运动衬衫

current fashion['kʌrənt'fæʃən]流行服装

un-cuffed bottom[ʌn-'kʌfd'bɔtəm]不翻边裤脚

pullover['pωləωvə（r）]无领无扣衫，套衫

terry cloth['teri klɔ：W]毛圈织物

fleece-lined cotton[fli：s-laind'kɔtn]厚绒棉布

plain bottom[plein'bɔtəm]平折下摆

slacks[slækz]宽松长裤

knit[nit]针织

leisure occasions['leʒə ə'keiʒənz]休闲　场合

interlock[，intə'lɔk]双罗纹

plaid[plæd]格子布

patch pocket[pætʃ'pɔkit]明贴袋

stripes[straip]条纹布，带条

checks[tʃeks]大格布

side pocket[said'pɔkit]侧口袋

hip pocket[hip'pɔkit]后袋

uniform['ju：nifɔ：m]制服

up-to-date trends[ʌp-tu：-'deit trend]最新潮流的

compliment['kɔmplimənt]恭维，赞美，称赞

pants[pænts]休闲裤

status['steitəs]地位，状况

sports wear[spɔ：tswεə]运动服

ski-pants[ski：-pænts]滑雪裤

A-Line[ə'lain]A字形

engaged[in'geidʒd]忙碌的；预定的

mini shorts['mini ʃɔ：ts]超短裤

Christian Dior['kristiən diɔ]克里斯汀·迪奥（法国时装设计师）

Mandarin Dress/Qipao Dress['mændərin dres/ʌipao dres]旗袍

shoulder['ʃəuldə]肩宽

bust[bʌst]胸围

upstanding collar[ʌp'stændiŋ'kɔlə]立领

lingerie[，lænʒə'ri：]妇女贴身内衣

hemline['hemlain]下摆

calf[ka：f]小腿

grommet['grɔmit]金属眼孔

national costume['næʃənl'kɔstju：m]民族服装

knee[ni：]膝围

flounce[flauns]衣裙上的荷叶边装饰

frog pocket[frɔg'pɔkit]风琴袋

princess line[prin'ses lain]公主线

crossed pocket[krɔst'pɔkit]横开口袋

tight fit[tait fit]紧身

halter neckline['hɔ：ltə'neklain]吊带领圈

breeches['bri：tʃiz]马裤

production sketch[prə'dʌkʃən sketʃ]生产图

denim['denim]粗斜纹棉布；牛仔服装

adorn[ə'dɔ：n]装饰

pattern-cutting['pætən-'kʌtiŋ]纸样裁剪

dart[da：t]省道（广东话：死褶）

gathered skirt['gæðərəskə：t]缩褶裙

solid color['sɔlid'kʌlə]单色，纯色

durability[，djuərə'biliti]耐久性

top stitching['tɔp-stitʃ]面缝线迹（广东话：缉面线）

princess dress['prinses dres]公主装

panel['pænl]衣片

leisure shirt['leʒə ʃə：t]休闲衬衫

seam[si：m]缝骨

yoke[jəuk]育克，过肩（广东话：担干，机头）

center back['sentə bæk]后中

waistline['weistlain]腰围线

fasten[fasten]系结物，扣紧

buckle['bʌkl]皮带扣

western shirt['westən ʃə：t]西部衬衫

tapered shirt['teipəd ʃə：t]紧身衬衫

pointed collar['pɔintid'kɔlə]三尖领

flaps[flæps]袋盖

brooch[bru：tʃ]胸针

jeans skirt[dʒi：ns skə：t]牛仔裙

skinny['skini]极瘦的

fancy snap['fænsi snæp]装饰按钮

tapered['teipəd]锥形的

slim[slim]苗条的

placket['plækit]开口，开襟（广东话：明筒）

boot cut[bu：t kʌt]喇叭口

narrow bottom['nærəuə'bɔtəm]窄脚

bell bottom[bel'bɔtəm]喇叭脚

Tee-Shirt[ti：-ʃə：t]T恤衫

plain[plein]平纹（布）

printed['printed]印花（布）

motifs[məu'ti：f]意念；要素

underwear['ʌndəwεə]内衣

close fitting[kləuz'fitiŋ]紧身的

low waist[ləu weist]低腰

flare[flεə]宽摆的

revealing[rIvi：lIŋ]暴露的，袒胸露肩的

undergarment/underclothing['ʌndə，ga：mənt]/['ʌndəkləuðiŋ]内衣

outer clothes['autə kləuðz]外套

Levi's Jeans['li：vaiz dʒeinz]李维斯牛仔裤

prospectors[prɔ'spektə（r）]采矿者

unders/underwear['ʌndəs]/['ʌndəwεə]内衣

cargo-pocket jeans['ka：gəu'pɔkit dʒeinz]大袋牛仔裤

nightwear[naItweə]睡衣

Bermuda shorts[bə（：）'mju：də ʃɔ：ts]百慕大短裤

swimsuit['swImsu：t]游泳衣

Exercises

1.Translate the following terms into Chinese.

（1）bottoms

（2）eyelet hole

（3）lacing

（4）zipper

（5）fastener

（6）pleating

（7）frilling

（8）fly front

（9）single cuff

（10）pullover

（11）terry cloth

（12）cotton

（13）knitted wear

（14）plaid

（15）striped

（16）fashion

（17）casual wear

（18）trousers

（19）collar

（20）sleeve

（21）patch pocket

（22）bottom

（23）jacket

（24）working shirt

（25）town-suit

（26）dinner jacket

（27）coat

（28）waist

（29）brace

（30）strap

（31）elastic

（32）tab

（33）side seam

（34）cash pocket

（35）waistband

（36）current fashion

（37）plain bottom

（38）slacks

（39）side pocket

（40）hip pocket

（41）pants

（42）sports wear

（43）ski-pants

（44）A-Line

（45）shoulder

（46）hemline

（47）flounce

（48）princess line

（49）breeches

（50）underwear

（51）close fitting

（52）Mandarin Dress

（53）lingerie

（54）tight fit

（55）grommet

（56）national costume

（57）pattern

（58）top-stitching

（59）leisure wear

（60）yoke

（61）center back

（62）pointed collar

（63）pocket flap

（64）snap

（65）placket

（66）Tee-shirt

（67）plain

（68）pleat

（69）dart

2.Describe this style in a 200 words paragraph（Including Front View&Back View）.

3.Draw the production sketch according to the following description.

A casual shirt should be designed with the collars, short or long sleeves, and the point pockets are usual features in this style of shirt. The front opening can be from top to bottom with buttons and button-holes, or zipper fastener.