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2.(法国)香奈儿 Chanel

品牌名片

品类:时装、成衣、化妆品、配饰、鞋

标志风格:高贵、高雅

创始人:嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿(GabrieIIe ChaneI)

诞生地:法国

诞生时间:1913年

当今香奈儿已成为时尚引领先锋,产品包括服饰、化妆品、珠宝等。

品牌阅读

Gabrielle Chanel was born in Saumur(France)on August 19th 1883 under the sign of Leo to parents of a modest background. In 1910,she opened her first shop at 21 rue Cambon in Paris, creating hats under the name“CHANEL Modes”.Favored by the most famous French actresses of the time, her designs helped to establish her reputation.Gabrielle Chanel's simple elegant style of dress created a sensation, and was soon imitated by all of Paris.

Gabrielle Chanel opened a new boutique in Deauville, France in 1913,and introduced a collection of sportswear. Her line of jersey garments proved revolutionary and changed women's relationships with their bodies and their ways of life.It was an immediate success.In 1915,Her reputation was now firmly established and Mademoiselle Chanel opened her first Couture House in Biarritz, France.

In 1921,Mademoiselle Chanel unveiled her first fragrance, the iconic CHANEL N°5. Created by Ernest Beaux, former perfumer to the Czars, N°5 was so called because it was the fifth scent presented to Mademoiselle Chanel.A truly timeless classic, N°5 remains the ultimate symbol of femininity.In 1924,CHANEL presented the first makeup collection, featuring lip colors and face powders.In the same year, the“Société des Parfums CHANEL”was founded and was dedicated to creating unique fragrances and beauty products.

In 1940s, Gabrielle Chanel was at the height of her fame. She employed 4,000 workers and owned five boutiques on rue Cambon in Paris.But when the World War II broke out, the House of CHANEL was compelled to closure.Among the five boutiques on rue Cambon, only one remained open:the store at number 31,where perfumes and accessories continued to be in high demand among Parisians and American soldiers alike.

At the age of 71,Gabrielle Chanel staged the grand re-opening of her Couture House. Tired of the fashions of the time, she inspired a second fashion revolution with her original creations.

In February of 1955,Gabrielle Chanel launched the iconic 2. 55 quilted handbag, naming the style after the date of its creation.Combining leather and gold chain, she invented a supple new style of shoulder strap that was uniquely strong and light, and that allowed a woman's hands to remain free.

The fascination with CHANEL grew, as the most celebrated stars of the time—Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Fonda, Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and Jeanne Moreau—wore the latest fashions from CHANEL.

The House of CHANEL expanded with the introduction of its first Ready-to-Wear collection and the worldwide distribution of its line of iconic accessories in 1978.

In 1987,the first line of CHANEL Watches was launched with the creation of the PREMIÈRE watch, designed by Jacques Helleu.The dial of the watch recalled the shape of both place Vendôme and the stopper of the iconic N°5 bottle.

In 1993,a milestone was reached with the launch of the first CHANEL Fine Jewelry collection in the heart of the place Vendôme in Paris.In 1997,CHANEL established 18 place Vendôme as the home of CHANEL Fine Jewelry.

In 2002,CHANEL acquired eight Parisian speciality ateliers to establish PARAFFECTION, a company consisting of Desrues(metalworker),Lemarié(flower and feather craftsmen),Maison Michel(milliner),Maison Lesage(embroiderer),Massaro(shoemaker),Goossens(goldsmith),Guillet(floral accessory expert)and Atelier Montex(embroiderer).In doing so, CHANEL supported the historic arts, and preserved the unique expertise of fashion’s traditional craftsmen.

femininity[ˌfeməˈninəti]n.温柔;柔弱性;女子本性

at the height of 在……的顶峰或鼎盛时期

expertise[ˌekspəːˈtiːz]n.专门技术

嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿于1883年8月19日出生于法国索缪一个寒微的家庭,狮子座。1910年,她在巴黎康朋街21号开设了自己的第一家女帽店,以“香奈儿时尚”为名,制作帽子。她的设计受到当时最著名的法国女演员们的垂青,也为她带来了美誉。嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿简洁优雅的着装风格引起轰动,很快被整个巴黎竞相效仿。

1913年,嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿在法国杜维埃开设了一家服饰店,推出运动服饰系列。她设计的针织服装具有革命性的意义,改变了女性与自己的身体以及生活方式的关系,并立即大获成功。1915年,声誉卓著的香奈儿在法国比亚利兹开设了自己的第一家个人品牌时装屋。

1921年,香奈儿推出自己的第一款香水,标志性的“香奈儿N°5”。香奈儿N°5由前沙皇宫廷调香师恩尼斯·鲍调制,之所以叫做5号,是因为这是他呈给香奈儿女士的第5款香水。香奈儿N°5是永恒经典的象征,至今仍是女性之美的极致标志。1924年,香奈儿推出第一个化妆品系列,以唇彩和蜜粉为主打。同年成立“香奈儿香水公司”,致力于生产独一无二的香水和美容用品。

20世纪40年代,嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿的声誉达到鼎盛期。她雇用了4000名工人,在巴黎康朋街拥有5家精品店。而随着第二次世界大战爆发,香奈儿公司被迫关闭。康朋街的5家店中,只有康朋街31号仍继续营业,因为巴黎人和美国士兵仍然对香水和配饰有大量的需求。

71岁时,香奈儿重返高级女装界。对当时的时尚潮流倍感厌倦的她,用自己独创的作品掀起了第二次时装革命。

1955年2月,嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿推出标志性的2.55菱格纹手袋,并以诞生的年月为其命名。她将皮革与金色链带相结合,发明了一种全新风格的柔韧肩带,既结实又轻巧,可以将女性的双手解放出来。

随着当时最著名的明星——伊丽莎白·泰勒、简·方达、杰奎琳·肯尼迪、格蕾丝·凯利和让娜·莫罗纷纷穿上香奈儿的最新时装,人们对香奈儿的迷恋也与日俱增。

1978年,高级成衣诞生。香奈儿品牌拓展业务,推出第一个高级成衣系列,并进一步向全球推广标志性的配饰系列。

1987年,香奈儿推出第一款腕表系列PREMIÈRE,由贾克·海卢设计。表盘形似芳登广场以及标志性的香奈儿N°5香水瓶瓶盖的轮廓。

1993年,香奈儿迎来全新里程碑,在巴黎芳登广场核心地带推出第一个香奈儿高级珠宝系列。1997年,香奈儿在芳登广场18号设立高级珠宝总店。

2002年,香奈儿将八家巴黎高级手工坊收入旗下,成立了PARAFFECTION子公司,包括:Desrues服饰珠宝坊,Lemarié山茶花及羽饰坊,Michel制帽坊,Lesage刺绣坊,Massaro鞋履坊,Goossens金银饰坊,Guillet花饰坊,以及Montex刺绣坊。通过这一方法,香奈儿不仅为传统的手工艺提供了支持,同时也保存了传统工匠的独特技术。

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