第70章 5th December,1836(1)

To the Rev.A.Brandram (ENDORSED:recd.Dec.28th,1836)SEVILLE,DEC.5TH,1836.

REVD.AND DEAR SIR,-I arrived safely at Cadiz on the 21st ult.;the steam-engine had been partially repaired at Lisbon,and our passage was speedy and prosperous.I was happy to have reached the shores of Spain,being eager to enter upon my allotted task.Cadiz is a small but beautiful city,built upon a tongue of land and surrounded on all points but one by the sea,which dashes up against its walls:the houses are lofty,and of a dazzling whiteness;the streets are straight and narrow.On my arrival Ifound great confusion reigning:numerous bands of the factious were reported to be hovering in the neighbourhood,an attack was not deemed improbable,and the place had just been declared in a state of siege.I took up my abode at the French Hotel,in the Calle de la Niveria,and was allotted a species of cock-loft or garret to sleep in,for the house was filled with guests,being a place of much resort on account of the excellent TABLE D'HOTE which is kept there.I dressed myself and walked about the town.Ientered several coffee houses:the din of tongues in all was deafening;in one no less than six orators were haranguing at the same time on the state of the country,and the probability of an intervention on the part of England and France.As I was listening to one of them he suddenly called upon me for my opinion,as I was a foreigner,and seemingly just arrived.I replied that I could not venture to guess what steps the two Governments would pursue under the present circumstances,but thought that it would be as well if the Spaniards would exert themselves more,and call less on Jupiter.As I did not wish to engage in any political conversation I instantly quitted the house,and sought those parts of the town where the lower classes principally reside.

I entered into discourse with several individuals,but found them very ignorant;none could write or read,and their ideas respecting religion were anything but satisfactory,most professing a perfect indifference.I afterwards went into a bookseller's shop,and made enquiries respecting the demand for literature,which he informed me was small.I produced our 24mo edition of the New Testament in Spanish,and asked the bookseller whether he thought a book of that deion would sell in Cadiz.He said it was exceedingly beautiful,both in type and paper,but it was a work not sought after,and very little known.I did not pursue my enquiries in other shops,for I reflected that I was not very likely to receive a very favourable opinion from booksellers respecting a publication in which they had no interest.I had,moreover,but two or three copies of the New Testament with me,and could not have supplied them had they given me an order.

That night I became very unwell,and was apprehending that I had been seized with the cholera,as the symptoms of my complaint were very similar to those which accompany that disorder.I was for some time in most acute pain,and terribly sick;I drank oil mixed with brandy,and in some degree recovered,and for the two succeeding days was very feeble,and able to undertake nothing.

This attack was the cause of my not writing to you from Cadiz as Ihad fully intended.

Early on the 24th I embarked for Seville in the small Spanish steamer the BETIS.The morning was wet,and the aspect of nature was enveloped in a dense mist,which prevented my observing surrounding objects.After proceeding about six leagues,we reached the north-eastern extremity of the bay of Cadiz,and passed by Saint Lucar,an ancient town close by where the Guadalquivir disembogues itself.The mist suddenly disappeared,and the sun of Spain burst forth in full brilliancy,enlivening all around,and particularly myself,who had till then been lying on the deck in a dull melancholy stupor.We entered the mouth of the 'Great River,'

for that is the English translation of QUED AL KIBER,as the Moors designated the ancient Betis.We came to anchor for a few minutes at a little village called Bonanca,at the extremity of the first reach of the river,where we received several passengers,and again proceeded.There is not much in the appearance of the Guadalquivir to interest the traveller:the banks are low and destitute of trees,the adjacent country is flat,and only in the distance is seen a range of tall blue sierras.The water is turbid and muddy,and in colour closely resembling the contents of a duck-pool;the average width of the stream is from 150to 200yards.But it is impossible to move along this river without remembering that it has borne the Roman,the Vandal,and the Arab,and has been the witness of deeds which have resounded through the world,and been the themes of immortal song.I repeated Latin verses and fragments of old Spanish ballads,till we reached Seville at about nine o'clock of a lovely moonlight night.

Before entering upon more important matter I will say a few words respecting Seville and its curiosities.It contains 90,000inhabitants,and is situated on the left bank of the Guadalquivir,about eighteen leagues from its mouth.It is surrounded with high Moorish walls,in a good state of preservation,and built of such durable materials that it is probable they will for many centuries bid defiance to the encroachment of time.The most remarkable edifices are the cathedral and Alcazar or palace of the Moorish kings.The tower of the former,called La Giralda,belongs to the period of the Moors,and formed part of the Grand Mosque of Seville.It is 220ells in height,and is ascended not by stairs or ladders,but by a vaulted pathway,in the manner of an inclined plane;this path is by no means steep,so that a cavalier might ride up to the top,a feat which Ferdinand the Seventh is said to have accomplished.The view from the summit is very extensive,and on a fine clear day the ridge called the Sierra de Ronda may be discovered though the distance is upward of twenty-two leagues.