第66章 At Shaston(1)

'Whoso prefers either Matrimony or other Ordinance before the Good of Man and the plain Exigence of Charity,let him profess Papist,or Protestant,or what he will,he is no better than a Pharisee .'-J.Milton.

IV-i Shaston,the ancient British Palladour,From whose foundation first such strange reports arise,(as Drayton sang it),was,and is,in itself the city of a dream.Vague imaginings of its castle,its three mints,its magnificent apsidal abbey,the chief glory of South Wessex,its twelve churches,its shrines,chantries,hospitals,its gabled freestone mansions -all now ruthlessly swept away -throw the visitor,even against his will,into a pensive melancholy,which the stimulating atmosphere and limitless landscape around him can scarcely dispel.The spot was the burial-place of a king and a queen,of abbots and abbesses,saints and bishops,knights and squires.The bones of King Edward 'the Martyr,'carefully removed hither for holy preservation,brought Shaston a renown which made it the resort of pilgrims from every part of Europe,and enabled it to maintain a reputation extending far beyond English shores.To this fair creation of the great Middle-Age the Dissolution was,as historians tell us,the death-knell.With the destruction of the enormous abbey the whole place collapsed in a general ruin:the Martyr's bones met with the fate of the sacred pile that held them,and not a stone is now left to tell where they lie.

The natural picturesqueness and singularity of the town still remain;but strange to say these qualities,which were noted by many writers in ages when scenic beauty is said to have been unappreciated,are passed over in this,and one of the queerest and quaintest spots in England stands virtually unvisited to-day.

It has a unique position on the summit of a steep and imposing scarp,rising on the north,south,and west sides of the borough out of the deep alluvial Vale of Blackmoor,the view from the Castle Green over three counties of verdant pasture -South,Mid,and Nether Wessex -being as sudden a surprise to the unexpectant traveller's eyes as the medicinal air is to his lungs.Impossible to a railway,it can best be reached on foot,next best by light vehicles;and it is hardly accessible to these but by a sort of isthmus on the north-east,that connects it with the high chalk table-land on that side.

Such is,and such was,the now world-forgotten Shaston or Palladour.

Its situation rendered water the great want of the town;and within living memory,horses,donkeys and men may have been seen toiling up the winding ways to the top of the height,laden with tubs and barrels filled from the wells beneath the mountain,and hawkers retailing their contents at the price of a halfpenny a bucketful.

This difficulty in the water supply,together with two other odd facts,namely,that the chief graveyard slopes up as steeply as a roof behind the church,and that in former times the town passed through a curious period of corruption,conventual and domestic,gave rise to the saying that Shaston was remarkable for three consolations to man,such as the world afforded not elsewhere.It was a place where the churchyard lay nearer heaven than the church steeple,where beer was more plentiful than water,and where there were more wanton women than honest wives and maids.It is also said that after the Middle Ages the inhabitants were too poor to pay their priests,and hence were compelled to pull down their churches,and refrain altogether from the public worship of God;a necessity which they bemoaned over their cups in the settles of their inns on Sunday afternoons.

In those days the Shastonians were apparently not without a sense of humour.

There was another peculiarity -this a modern one -which Shaston appeared to owe to its site.It was the resting-place and headquarters of the proprietors of wandering vans,shows,shooting-galleries,and other itinerant concerns,whose business lay largely at fairs and markets.As strange wild birds are seen assembled on some lofty promontory,meditatively pausing for longer flights,or to return by the course they followed thither,so here,in this cliff-town,stood in stultified silence the yellow and green caravans bearing names not local,as if surprised by a change in the landscape so violent as to hinder their further progress;and here they usually remained all the winter till they turned to seek again their old tracks in the following spring.

It was to this breezy and whimsical spot that Jude ascended from the nearest station for the first time in his life about four o'clock one afternoon,and entering on the summit of the peak after a toilsome climb,passed the first houses of the aerial town;and drew towards the school-house.

The hour was too early;the pupils were still in school,humming small,like a swarm of gnats;and he withdrew a few steps along Abbey Walk,whence he regarded the spot which fate had made the home of all he loved best in the world.In front of the schools,which were extensive and stone-built,grew two enormous beeches with smooth mouse-coloured trunks,as such trees will only grow on chalk uplands.Within the mullioned and transomed windows he could see the black,brown,and flaxen crowns of the scholars over the sills,and to pass the time away he walked down to the level terrace where the abbey gardens once had spread,his heart throbbing in spite of him.

Unwilling to enter till the children were dismissed he remained here till young voices could be heard in the open air,and girls in white pinafores over red and blue frocks appeared dancing along the paths which the abbess,prioress,subprioress,and fifty nuns had demurely paced three centuries earlier.Retracing his steps he found that he had waited too long,and that Sue had gone out into the town at the heels of the last scholar,Mr.Phillotson having been absent all the afternoon at a teachers' meeting at Shottsford.